Selection Guide for Nonionic Emulsifiers Classified by Chemical Structure

Outline

Overview of Nonionic Emulsifiers for Cosmetics

In cosmetic formulations emulsifiers function as essential components that stabilize mixtures of two liquids that normally cannot mix such as oil and water. The reduction of interfacial tension between two liquid phases enables the creation of stable droplets where one liquid becomes dispersed in the other forming an emulsion. The selection of proper emulsifiers plays a critical role in obtaining optimal product texture, stability, and sensory characteristics.

Nonionic emulsifiers achieve widespread usage in cosmetic industry because their neutral charge provides high chemical stability and minimizes skin irritation. Nonionic emulsifiers possess a chemical structure that includes both surfactant properties and an emulsifying effect through their hydrophilic groups which contain hydroxyl (-OH) or ether bonds (R-O-R') and their lipophilic groups that consist of high carbon fatty alcohol, fatty acid, high carbon fatty amine, fatty amide, and similar compounds. as lipophilic group.

This guide from Alfa Chemistry organizes nonionic cosmetic emulsifiers based on their chemical structure to assist formulators in their decision-making process.

Features of Nonionic Emulsifiers

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Polyethylene Glycols (PEGs)

Fatty Alcohol Polyoxyethylene Ethers

These are formed by reacting fatty alcohols (like cetyl or stearyl alcohol) with ethylene oxide. The number following the "eth" prefix indicates the average number of ethylene oxide units. Higher numbers signify greater water solubility. They are commonly used in oil-in-water emulsions.

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Notes: HLB values can vary slightly depending on the exact chain length of the fatty alcohol. The values provided are approximate and should just be used as a guideline.

Polyethylene Glycol Fatty Acid Esters

Fatty acids such as stearic acid or castor oil undergo a reaction with polyethylene glycol to form these substances. The availability of various HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) values allows these substances to be versatile in emulsion formulation.

Polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters demonstrate emulsifying properties and can also provide wettability and solubilization capabilities. Its various beneficial properties lead to its extensive application in daily chemical industry, food production, pesticide development, textile processing and metal treatment operations.

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Silicone Oils

These emulsifiers share standard emulsifying properties but possess enhanced surface activity and spreadability which enables them to lower water surface tension more effectively than typical emulsifiers and makes them ideal for W/O emulsion preparation due to their superior emulsification properties.

Organic silicone emulsifiers mostly exist as liquids or gels. The molecules contain complex branched structures that resist crystallization and remain stable at reduced temperatures. The unique molecular structure provides excellent flexibility to achieve superior methyl stacking which reduces molecular interaction forces and creates a dense monomolecular film on liquid surfaces resulting in outstanding wettability and lubricity.

Features

• Excellent emulsification properties.
• Multifunctionality, such as moisturizing, softness, smoothness, glossiness, sun protection, antistatic, etc.
• High stability.
• Good skin feel.
• Wide applicability, suitable for a variety of cosmetic types, including creams, lotions, foundation liquids, conditioners, essence oils, etc.
• Good compatibility with other ingredients.

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Glyceryl Fatty Acid Esters

These are naturally derived emulsifiers obtained by esterifying glycerin with fatty acids. These emulsifiers are mild and biocompatible, making them ideal for sensitive skin formulations. They can be used not only as W/O emulsifiers, but also as O/W emulsifiers and form multiple emulsions.

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Polyglycerol Fatty Acid Esters

Polyglycerol fatty acid esters (PGFE) are a class of highly efficient and excellent polyhydroxy ester nonionic emulsifiers. Polyglycerol esters are quite stable in acidic, alkaline and neutral environments, and have good emulsification properties when the salt content is high. It is non-irritating to human skin and hair, highly safe, and can also be used in the food industry.

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Sorbitan Derivatives

Nonionic surfactants derived from sorbitol derivatives have extensive applications across cosmetics, food products, medical applications and industrial uses. These emulsifiers have multiple functions, including emulsification, solubilization, stabilization, wetting and dispersion properties.

Sorbitan fatty acid esters (Span series, W/O emulsifiers) and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters (Tween series, O/W emulsifiers) are the most representative. The combination of the two can exert good emulsification properties and form stable multiple emulsions.

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Sugar Derivatives

Sugar-based emulsifiers are biodegradable and offer mildness. They are gaining popularity due to their natural origin. Sugar derivative emulsifiers include glucosides and sucrose esters.

Glucoside Emulsifiers

Glucoside emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants made by reacting glucose with fatty acids or their derivatives. For example, nonionic emulsifiers derived from gluconic acid (Sorbitan) include Sorbitan palmitate, Sorbitan stearate, and Sorbitan trioleate. In addition, there are glucosides emulsifiers based on other sugar derivatives such as xylose and fructose, such as mannoside emulsifiers.

Sucrose Ester Emulsifiers

Sucrose ester emulsifiers represent nonionic surfactants produced through chemical reactions between sucrose and fatty acids alongside their derivatives. The sucrose ester emulsifiers demonstrate safety and non-irritating properties while being environmentally friendly with stable and biodegradable characteristics. They also have a certain moisturizing effect.

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Selection Guide for Nonionic Emulsifiers Classified by Chemical Structure

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