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Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance (HLB) system is an indispensable tool for formulators in the cosmetic industry to simplify the complex task of selecting emulsifiers for stable emulsion creation. Conceived by Griffin in the late 1940s and early 1950s, the HLB system provides a numerical value for non-ionic surfactants, indicating the balance between their hydrophilic and lipophilic properties.
The HLB value of an emulsifier can range from 0 to 20, with lower values indicating a preference for oil and higher values favoring water. By selecting an emulsifier with the right HLB value for a specific formulation, formulators can achieve optimal emulsion stability and desired texture.
An overview of the different applications of emulsifiers with different HLB values is shown in the table below.
The HLB value of an emulsifier is crucial in ensuring the stability and efficacy of cosmetic emulsions.
HLB=20*Mh/M
Mh is the molecular weight of the hydrophilic group part, and M is the total molecular weight.
HLB=20 (1-S/A)
where S represents the saponification value of the surfactant and A represents the value of the fatty acid that forms fat.
HLB=HLB(A)*A%+HLB(B)*B%
To calculate the HLB value of a blend of emulsifiers, the percentage of each emulsifier and their respective HLB values should be considered. For instance, if a blend consists of 70% Emulsifier 1 with an HLB of 15 and 30% Emulsifier 2 with an HLB of 4.3, the overall HLB value for the blend can be calculated to be 11.8.
HLB=7+the sum of the hydrophilic groups + the sum of the lipophilic groups
HLB = (sum of inorganic group values/sum of organic group values)×10
CAS | PRODUCT NAME | HLB Value | INQUIRY |
---|---|---|---|
2598-99-4 | Stearyl Palmitate | 10 | Inquiry |
1338-41-6 | Sorbitan Stearate | 4.7 | Inquiry |
1338-43-8 | Sorbitan Oleate | 4.3 | Inquiry |
8027-33-6 | Lanolin Alcohol | 10 | Inquiry |
9007-48-1 | Polyglyceryl Oleate | 5 | Inquiry |
9005-64-5 | Polysorbate 20 | 16-17 | Inquiry |
9005-65-6 | Polysorbate 80 | 15 | Inquiry |
61788-85-0 | PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil | 15 | Inquiry |
68201-46-7 | PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate | 11 | Inquiry |
3055-94-5 | Laureth-3 | 8 | Inquiry |
68439-49-6 | Ceteareth-20 | 15-17 | Inquiry |
68439-49-6 | Ceteareth-25 | 16 | Inquiry |
8002-43-5 | Lecithin Powder | > 4 | Inquiry |
11099-07-3 | Glyceryl Stearate SE | 5-8 | Inquiry |
61789-88-6 | Olive Solubilizer | 12 | Inquiry |
9005-67-8 | Polysorbate 60 | 14.9 | Inquiry |
Understanding the HLB values of both the emulsifiers and the ingredients to be emulsified is essential for successful emulsion formation. The HLB system eases the process by allowing formulators to match the HLB value of emulsifiers with the required HLB values of the ingredients.
In practice, combining emulsifiers with varying HLB values is often more effective than solely relying on a single emulsifier with an exact HLB value. By leveraging a combination effect, achieved through pairing high HLB emulsifiers with low HLB ones, the interface around the continuous and dispersed phases of emulsions is optimally filled, enhancing stability and overall performance.