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Cosmetic formulation design is a crucial aspect of cosmetic product development. There are seven basic systems that play an indispensable role in creating effective and safe cosmetic formulas, including emulsification system, efficacy system, thickening system, antioxidant system, preservative system, sensory modification system and safety assurance system. Each system contributes to the overall quality, efficacy, and safety of cosmetic products.
The emulsification system is a cornerstone in cosmetic formulation, particularly for emulsion-based products like lotions and creams. It involves the creation of stable emulsions, ensuring the proper blending of oil and water phases. Various emulsifiers, such as surfactants and particles, are used in formulating cosmetic emulsions. The careful selection of emulsifiers and the optimization of emulsification processes are critical to achieving desirable texture, appearance, and stability in cosmetic products.
Emulsions used in cosmetics are mainly two basic types: W/O (water in oil) and O/W (oil in water). The two different types will bring different sensory characteristics to the skin.
Reference Guide to HLB Values of Common Emulsifiers
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The efficacy system focuses on ensuring that cosmetic products deliver the intended benefits to the skin or hair. It involves the selection of active ingredients, their concentration, and compatibility with other components in the formulation. Common cosmetic efficacy types include:
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The thickening system is responsible for controlling the viscosity and texture of cosmetic formulations. Various thickening agents, such as natural polymers, synthetic polymers, and rheology modifiers, are used to adjust the consistency of products like gels, serums, and shampoos. The choice of thickening agents significantly impacts the sensory attributes and application experience of cosmetic products.
The role of the antioxidant additive component system in the formula system is to prevent the oxidation and deterioration of cosmetics and ensure product quality. We call this component system an antioxidant system. The presence of an antioxidant system can effectively prevent the oxidation of unsaturated oils (oils containing unsaturated fatty acids) in cosmetics.
| Sodium sulfite | Sodium acetone metabisulfite | Thioglycerol |
| Sodium bisulfite | Sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate | Thiosorbitol |
| Sodium metabisulfite | Ascorbic acid | Thioacetic acid |
| Sodium thiosulfate | Isoascorbic acid | Cysteine |
| Ascorbyl palmitate | N-dihydroguaiac acid | α-Tocopherol |
| Hydroquinone | 2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol (BHT) | Phenyl-α-naphthyl |
| Propyl gallate | Butyl hydrogen anisole (BHA) | Lecithin |
Cosmetics that are affected by microorganisms will deteriorate, mold and spoil. Adding preservatives can prevent the growth of microorganisms in the product or the growth of microorganisms that react with the product. The preservative system is essential for ensuring the microbiological stability and safety of cosmetic products.
Preservative Efficacy Test for Cosmetics
The sensory modification system focuses on enhancing the overall sensory experience of using cosmetic products. This involves the careful selection of fragrances, texture modifiers, and other sensory enhancers to create appealing scents, textures, and application sensations.
Safety assurance systems are integrated into every stage of cosmetic formulation design. This system ensures compliance with regulatory standards, rigorous safety testing, and stringent evaluation of raw materials and finished products. It encompasses comprehensive assessments of potential skin irritation, allergic reactions, and long-term safety.
Quickly Get Cosmetic Testing
Testing of Prohibited and Restricted Ingredients in Cosmetics
Formaldehyde Testing in Cosmetics
Cosmetic Allergen Screening
Safety of Nanomaterials in Cosmetics
As people's awareness of pursuing naturalness, greenness, health and safety increases, natural beauty cosmetics based on plant active ingredients are becoming more and more popular among consumers. However, it is worth mentioning that sometimes natural ingredients are not necessarily safer than synthetic ingredients.
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