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Selection Guide for Retinol and Retinol Derivatives

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Retinol and retinol derivatives play a crucial role in cosmetic formulations due to their remarkable influence on skin structure formation, making them a key choice for anti-aging and skin rejuvenation products. At Alfa Chemistry, we understand the pivotal role of retinol and retinol derivatives in cosmetic formulations. This article aims to quickly help you understand the mechanism of action, advantages and disadvantages of retinol and its important derivatives in skin care, so as to solve the confusion of selecting retinol-related ingredients in your cosmetic formulation.

Improvement of Retinol and Retinoid Derivatives

Retinol, also known as vitamin A1, is a biologically active fat-soluble vitamin. It can be converted into its active form, retinoic acid, in the skin, which in turn regulates gene expression, promotes collagen synthesis, and reduces pigmentation, thereby achieving an anti-wrinkle effect.

However, retinol is easily oxidized in the air, easily inactivated under ultraviolet radiation, insoluble in water and irritating, which limits its application in cosmetic formulations. In order to solve the problems of retinol instability and skin irritation, a series of improvement strategies have been developed, including:

  • Encapsulation technology such as microencapsulation, micelles, and liposomes for retinol.
  • Chemical structure modification of retinol, so retinol derivatives came into being.

Compared with retinol, retinol derivatives are milder and more suitable for product solutions with different skin care needs.

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Functions of Retinoid Derivatives

PRODUCT NAMEFUNCTIONSDISADVANTAGES
Retinyl PalmitateAs a long-chain fatty acid ester of retinol, the conversion process in the skin is relatively slow, and the irritation to the skin is relatively small, which is suitable for sensitive skin. It can promote the enhancement of skin barrier function and has a mild anti-wrinkle effect.Insoluble in water, photosensitivity, and less activity.
Retinyl LinoleateCombined with the characteristics of linoleic acid, it has good skin affinity, can better penetrate the skin, promote the repair of the skin barrier, and keep the skin moisturized.Less active than retinol.
Retinyl AcetateIt is highly stable and not easy to oxidize. It is suitable for all skin types, especially sensitive skin. It can gently promote skin metabolism, improve uneven skin tone, and reduce fine lines.Fat-soluble and needs to be stored away from light.
Retinyl PropionateIts conversion efficiency is between retinol and retinol palmitate, which can provide moderate anti-aging effects while reducing irritation.Less active than retinol.
Retinyl RetinoateAlthough it contains the structure of retinoic acid, it exists in an esterified form, which makes the process of releasing retinoic acid in the skin more gentle, suitable for mature skin that needs stronger anti-aging effects. Both light stability and chemical stability are better than retinol.Fat soluble.
RetinaldehydeRetinaldehyde is an intermediate metabolite of retinol in the body and has higher biological activity than retinol. It is rarely used directly in skin care products, but its presence indicates that it is part of the retinol conversion pathway and plays an important role in regulating skin health and promoting collagen production.More irritating.
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR)Unlike traditional esters, it can act directly on the skin without multiple conversion steps, and has similar activity to retinoic acid but less irritation. It can effectively promote cell renewal, improve skin elasticity and pigmentation. It is less irritating than retinol and is milder.Insoluble in water and has photosensitivity.
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