Ceteareth-25

Moldovan, Mirela, et al. Clujul Medical, 2017, 90(2), 212.

An anti-aging cream based on botanical ingredients and ferulic acid was developed and evaluated for its physical properties and efficacy.
· Formulation Design and Preparation
The active ingredients were Centella asiatica oil, Spirulina oil, ginger extract and ferulic acid. Formulation (F1) used glyceryl stearate and Ceteareth-25 as emulsifiers. The cream was prepared as a water-in-oil dispersion by heating the aqueous phase and the oil phase containing a lipophilic surfactant separately. The hydroalcoholic extract of ginger was added to the aqueous phase, while Spirulina flower oil, Centella asiatica oil and ferulic acid were added to the oil phase. The aqueous phase was added to the oil phase under continuous stirring at 50°C±2°C (DLS mixer, 500 rpm).
· Formulation Effect
The average diameter of the oil droplets in formulation F1 was 10.26±4.72 mm and the polydispersity index was 35.4%, respectively. The mean values for consistency were 594.7±10.3 g, the mean value for adhesion was 15.61±0.8 mJ, the mean value for hardness was 51.2±0.8 g, and the value for spreadability was 72.63 mm2. In vivo studies showed that the mean value of skin density increased from 9.21±1.39 % to 12.50±1.44 % after 8 weeks of cream application. The herbal ingredients added to the O/W cream base have antioxidant activity and anti-wrinkle effects, which can induce changes in skin density, an important parameter for quantifying the skin regeneration process.

Moldovan, Mirela Liliana, et al. Farmacia, 2021, 69(1), 129-134.

Two cosmetic creams were developed in this work to restore the integrity of the epidermal barrier. The first cream was formulated as an oil-in-water gel cream (O/W) and the second as a cold cream water-in-oil dispersion (W/O). Avocado oil, evening primrose oil, and Pistacia chinensis were selected as natural emollients. In the O/W cream, ceteareth-25 was used as an emulsifier.
Preparation and properties of O/W cream
Lipophilic ingredients, including cetostearyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, and shea butter, were melted in a water bath at 60 ± 2°C, along with the liposoluble emulsifier glyceryl stearate. Once melted, avocado oil, caprylic/capric triglycerides, and evening primrose oil were added to the mixture. Separately, ceteareth-25 was dissolved in water at the same temperature, and niacinamide and glycerol were gradually mixed in before being combined with Sepigel 305. The melted lipophilic phase was then incorporated into the mixture while stirring continuously at 2000 rpm until a homogeneous cream was formed, which was allowed to cool to room temperature.
The results of hydration level and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) showed an improvement in the skin barrier function, as both parameters increased significantly after a four-week application period. In addition, the volunteers showed an improvement in the skin appearance.