Product Focus: Must-See for Formulators - Cosmetic Emulsifiers

Alfa Chemistry stands as a top international provider of superior cosmetic emulsifiers and surfactants with a wide-ranging selection of ingredients designed to meet different formulation requirements. Our offerings increase stability and texture while maximizing efficacy in cosmetic care products such as creams and hair conditioners. Our solutions address the constantly changing beauty industry needs through our dedication to innovative and sustainable practices.

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What Is Emulsifier?

Emulsifier is one of the most commonly used and most versatile surfactants in daily life. It is a typical amphiphilic compound with a polar or hydrophilic (i.e. water-soluble) part and a non-polar (i.e. hydrophobic or lipophilic) part. It is mainly used in food, pharmaceuticals, hair styling, personal hygiene and cosmetics.

In the daily chemical industry, in addition to adding ingredients, additives are also needed to stabilize the product state during the research and development of cosmetics and washing. Among them, emulsifiers are one of the important components of cosmetic raw materials. They play the role of emulsification, dispersion, solubilization, lubrication, softening, stabilization, etc., so that one of the two immiscible liquids can be evenly dispersed in the other liquid. It can be said that without emulsifiers, most formulas cannot exist, and many active ingredients cannot be added to the formula. Therefore, the use of emulsifiers and even the correct, precise and scientific use of emulsifiers is the basis for formulation engineers and is indispensable.

How Do Emulsifiers Work in Cosmetic Formulas?

Emulsifiers serve as the essential "bridge" component in cosmetic formulas that enable products to fulfill formula requirements through interfacial tension reduction while stabilizing emulsion structure and improving both product texture and efficacy. These listed aspects demonstrate how emulsifiers function within cosmetic formulas:

Reduce interfacial tension

Mechanism: Oil and water cannot mix naturally due to their different polarities. The molecular structure of emulsifiers contains both hydrophilic groups (water-loving) and lipophilic groups (oil-loving), which can be adsorbed on the interface of oil and water to reduce the interfacial tension between the two.
Result: Oil droplets can be dispersed more evenly in water to form a stable emulsion.

Form a stable emulsion structure

Mechanism: Emulsifiers form a protective film at the oil-water interface to prevent oil droplets from reaggregating or stratifying.
In oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, emulsifiers wrap oil droplets in water.
In water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, emulsifiers wrap water droplets in oil.
Result: The emulsion can remain uniform for a long time and avoid stratification or precipitation.

Improve product texture and skin feel

Mechanism: Emulsifiers enable control over the viscosity and fluidity of emulsions which impacts both the texture and application performance of the product.
Specific emulsifiers create a lighter emulsion which makes application and absorption easier for refreshing skin care formulas.
Some emulsifiers help achieve a thicker emulsion consistency which works perfectly in moisturizing creams.
Result: Enhance the product experience while accommodating the requirements of various skin types.

Enhance the penetration and stability of active ingredients

Mechanism: The addition of emulsifiers enables better distribution of active components like vitamins and antioxidants within a product's formula. Emulsifiers disperse active ingredients evenly throughout the formula which enhances their ability to penetrate deeper skin layers.
Results: Augment cosmetic effectiveness while maximizing the performance of active compounds.

Improve the stability and shelf life of products

Mechanism: Emulsifiers maintain a stable mixture of oil and water to stop layer separation and protect against spoilage and bacterial contamination.
Results: Cosmetics shelf life should be extended while guaranteeing optimal product condition during usage.

Types of Emulsifiers: Diversified Classification Standards

01. Classification by Chemical Structure

According to the chemical structure of emulsifiers, they can be divided into the following categories:

Fatty Acid Esters

Such as glyceryl monostearate, polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, etc., are often used in skin care products and food.

Polyoxyethylene Ethers

Such as polysorbate (Tween series), octylphenol polyoxyethylene ether, etc., have good emulsifying properties.

Polyol Esters

Such as sucrose esters, sorbitol esters, etc., are often used in food and cosmetics.

Natural Emulsifiers

Such as lecithin, gum arabic, xanthan gum, etc., are derived from natural plants or animals, safe and environmentally friendly.

Silicone Oil Emulsifiers

Such as polydimethylsiloxane, are often used in high-end skin care products to provide a silky texture.

Selection Guide for Nonionic Emulsifiers Classified by Chemical Structure

Featured Products

Catalog Number	Product Name	HLB Value	Emulsion Type	Price
CI-SC-0297	Laureth-4	9.7	O/W	Inquiry
CI-SC-0296	Laureth-23	16.9	O/W	Inquiry
CI-SC-0333	Steareth-2	4.9	W/O	Inquiry
CI-SC-0315	Steareth-20	15.3	O/W	Inquiry
CI-SC-0334	Steareth-21	15.5	O/W	Inquiry
CI-SC-0349	Nonoxynol-10	13.2	O/W	Inquiry
CI-SC-0153	Ceteareth-20	15.2	O/W	Inquiry
CI-SC-0288	Ceteareth-12	13.2	O/W	Inquiry
CI-SC-0154	Ceteareth-25	16.2	O/W	Inquiry
CI-GU-0333	Isoceteth-20	15.7	O/W	Inquiry

02. Classification by Ionic Properties

Based on whether the emulsifier is ionized in aqueous solution and the nature of the charge after ionization, it can be divided in the following categories:

Anionic Emulsifier

Features: negatively charged after ionization in water.

Common examples: fatty acid salts (such as sodium stearate), alkyl sulfates (such as sodium lauryl sulfate).

Application: cleaning products (such as facial cleansers, shampoos).

Cationic Emulsifier

Features: positively charged after ionization in water.

Common examples: quaternary ammonium salts (such as cetrimonium bromide).

Application: conditioners, softeners, with antistatic and conditioning effects.

Zwitterionic Emulsifier

Features: can be either positively or negatively charged in water, depending on the pH value.

Common examples: betaines (such as cocamidopropyl betaine).

Application: mild cleansing products, suitable for sensitive skin.

Nonionic Emulsifier

Features: non-ionized in water, high stability, insensitive to pH value.

Common examples: polysorbate (Tween series), fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether (such as Oleth series).

Application: widely used in skin care products, medicines and foods.

Selection Guide for Common Emulsifiers Classified by Ion Type

Featured Products

Catalog Number	Product Name	HLB Value	Emulsion Type	Price
CI-HC-0001	Sodium Lauryl Sulfate	40	O/W	Inquiry
CI-HC-0110	Sodium Stearate	17	O/W	Inquiry
CI-SC-0320	Oleth-10 Phosphate	-	O/W	Inquiry
CI-HC-0052	Cetrimonium Chloride	14-16	O/W	Inquiry
CI-GU-0183	Steartrimonium Chloride	15.7	O/W	Inquiry
CI-SC-0198	Cocamidopropyl Betaine	13.4	O/W	Inquiry
CI-HC-0017	Lauramidopropyl Betaine	13.3	O/W	Inquiry
CI-SC-0321	Oleth-2	4.9	W/O	Inquiry
CI-SC-0319	Oleth-10	12.4	O/W	Inquiry
CI-SC-0322	Oleth-20	15.3	O/W	Inquiry

03. Classification by HLB Value

HLB (hydrophile-lipophile balance) value is used to measure the balance between hydrophilic and lipophilic groups in emulsifier molecules, with a value range of 0-20:

Low HLB Value (3-6)

Features: strong lipophilicity, suitable for the preparation of water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions.

Common examples: glyceryl monostearate, sorbitan monooleate (Span series).

Medium HLB Value (7-9)

Features: has certain hydrophilicity and lipophilicity, suitable as a wetting agent or stabilizer.

High HLB Value (10-18)

Features: strong hydrophilicity, suitable for the preparation of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions.

Common examples: polysorbate (Tween series), polyoxyethylene fatty alcohol ether.

Reference Guide to HLB Values of Common Emulsifiers

How to Calculate the HLB Value of Emulsifier?

Featured Products

Catalog Number	Product Name	HLB Value	Emulsion Type	Price
CI-SC-0547	Sorbitan Sesquioleate	3.7	W/O	Inquiry
CI-HC-0216	Glyceryl Stearate	3.8	W/O	Inquiry
CI-SC-0207	Sorbitan Oleate	4.3	W/O	Inquiry
CI-SC-0206	Sorbitan Stearate	4.7	W/O	Inquiry
CI-SC-0340	PEG-8 Dioleate	8	O/W	Inquiry
CI-SC-0205	Sorbitan Laurate	8.6	O/W	Inquiry
CI-SC-0344	Polysorbate 60	14.9	O/W	Inquiry
CI-SC-0215	Polysorbate 80	15	O/W	Inquiry
CI-SC-0153	Ceteareth-20	15.2	O/W	Inquiry
CI-SC-0322	Oleth-20	15.3	O/W	Inquiry

04. Classification by Source

According to the source of emulsifiers, they can be divided into the following categories:

Synthetic Emulsifiers

Features: Prepared by chemical synthesis, stable performance, and widely used.

Common examples: polysorbate, fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether.

Natural Emulsifiers

Features: Derived from plants or animals, safe and environmentally friendly, in line with the trend of natural organic cosmetics.

Common examples: lecithin, gum arabic, xanthan gum, beeswax.

Semi-Synthetic Emulsifiers

Features: Prepared by chemically modifying natural raw materials, combining the advantages of both natural and synthetic.

Common examples: modified starch, cellulose derivatives (such as hydroxyethyl cellulose).

Featured Products

Catalog Number	Product Name	HLB Value	Type	Price
CI-SC-0361	Lecithin	variable	Natural	Inquiry
CI-SC-0984	Lecithin Powder	variable	Natural	Inquiry
CI-HC-0108	Xanthan Gum	10~11	Natural	Inquiry
CI-HC-0200	Beeswax	12	Natural	Inquiry
CI-SC-0481	PEG-8 Beeswax	9	Semi-synthetic	Inquiry
CI-SC-0307	HE-Cellulose, Modified	variable	Semi-synthetic	Inquiry

05. Classification by Emulsion Type

According to the type of emulsion prepared by the emulsifier, it can be divided into the following categories:

Oil-in-Water (O/W) Emulsifier

Features: Strong hydrophilicity, suitable for preparing oil-in-water emulsions.

Common examples: polysorbate (Tween series), fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene ether.

Water-in-Oil (W/O) Emulsifier

Features: Strong lipophilicity, suitable for preparing water-in-oil emulsions.

Common examples: sorbitan monooleate (Span series), glyceryl monostearate.

Cosmetic Formula Solutions: Emulsifier Selection and Formula Design

In cosmetic formulations, the selection of emulsifiers needs to consider the following factors:

Emulsion type: oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O).
Formula ingredients: the ratio of oil phase and water phase, the nature of active ingredients.
Target skin feel: refreshing, moisturizing or heavy.
Safety: whether it is suitable for sensitive skin or specific skin types.

Herein, Alfa Chemistry not only supplies high-quality emulsifiers, but also is a full-range partner for customers in the field of emulsifiers. We are committed to helping you solve various challenges in emulsifier applications and enhance the competitiveness of your products.

HLB Value Matching

According to your target emulsion type (oil-in-water or water-in-oil), recommend emulsifiers with suitable HLB values.

Formula Development and Optimization

We provide customized emulsifier formula design services, and also provide customers with professional formula optimization suggestions to help solve problems such as emulsification stability, texture improvement, and active ingredient penetration.

Special Functional Requirements

If you have special functional requirements for emulsifiers (such as mildness, natural origin, high stability, etc.), we provide customized solutions.

Performance Testing

Provide emulsifier performance testing services, including emulsification stability, HLB value determination, pH value testing, etc.

Safety Assessment

Toxicology and skin irritation tests are performed on emulsifiers to ensure their safety and compliance.

What Our Clients Say

We are a small but fast-growing personal care company. We have been purchasing emulsifiers from Alfa Chemistry for the past year. Their product performance and competitive prices are a great fit for us. Alfa Chemistry is a key partner in our success, and I look forward to continuing to work with them in the future.

Sarah Jones

Founder, Cosmetic Startup Company

I've had the pleasure of working with Alfa Chemistry's cosmetic emulsifiers for several years. Their top-notch team always provides me with reliable advice on cosmetic formulas. I highly recommend them to any cosmetic manufacturer looking for a dependable supplier.

Dr. Emily Carter

Senior Formulation Chemist, Beauty Innovation Department

Alfa Chemistry has consistently exceeded our expectations in terms of product quality, timely delivery, and competitive pricing. We use their emulsifiers in multiple product lines. In particular, the natural emulsifier lanolin is suitable for our environmentally friendly and sustainable skin care formulations.

Michael Brown

Procurement Manager, Natural Skincare Manufacturer.

Why Choose Alfa Chemistry?

Technical Expertise

Our team provides formulation support and customized solutions.

Quality Assurance

Rigorous testing ensures batch-to-batch consistency.

Global Reach

Efficient logistics and compliance with regional regulations.

FAQs About Emulsifiers

1. Are emulsifiers irritating to the skin?

Most emulsifiers are safe for skin at normal use concentrations. However, some emulsifiers (such as anionic emulsifiers) may irritate sensitive skin. When choosing an emulsifier, you should pay attention to the following:

Give priority to mild, non-irritating non-ionic or natural emulsifiers.
Perform skin irritation tests to ensure safety.

2. Will emulsifiers cause cosmetics to stratify?

Emulsifiers serve as agents to stop stratification from occurring in mixtures. The emulsion risks becoming both unstable and stratified when the wrong emulsifier is selected or when the dosage is too low. Solutions include:

Choose the appropriate emulsifier type and HLB value.
Adjust the dosage of the emulsifier.
Optimize the formulation process (such as homogenization speed, temperature control).

3. How much emulsifier is used?

The formulation type and desired emulsion stability dictate emulsifier usage which typically ranges from 1% to 5%. Experiments should be conducted to establish the precise dosage required. Begin with a small dosage and progressively modify until you reach the optimal effect.

4. How to test the stability of the emulsifier?

Common emulsifier stability test methods include centrifugation test, temperature cycle test, and long-term stability test. Welcome to contact us to discuss your specific emulsifier test project.

5. What's the difference between O/W and W/O emulsifiers, and how do I choose the right one?

O/W emulsifiers create light products through the dispersion of oil droplets within a water-based continuous phase. W/O emulsifiers operate in reverse by dispersing water droplets within an oil-based continuous phase which produces richer and often water-resistant products. The selection of emulsifier type should align with the specific characteristics desired in the final product. Light creams and lotions typically use O/W formulations whereas W/O formulations are frequently found in sunscreens and night creams as well as some makeup products.

6. Are there any natural or "green" emulsifiers available, and are they as effective as traditional ones?

Yes, the market demand for natural emulsifiers continues to expand. Lecithin and sucrose esters function as natural emulsifiers along with some gums extracted from plants. Their effectiveness can vary. Although certain emulsifiers function effectively on their own, others require precise formula modifications or blends to obtain the necessary stability and sensory characteristics. We need to remind you that "natural" or "green" labels do not guarantee excellent quality, so comprehensive testing is essential.

Are natural ingredients in cosmetics better than synthetic ingredients?

7. Can I combine different emulsifiers?

Absolutely! Formulators commonly combine emulsifiers to reach the target HLB value and enhance both stability and sensory characteristics. A primary emulsifier can be mixed with a co-emulsifier or stabilizer for better results. Just confirm that your chosen emulsifiers work well together.

Case Study: Innovative Emulsifiers in Cosmetics

(Cortes, Natalia, et al. 2024)

Natalia Cortes et al. investigated the patented cosmetic emulsifiers from 2013 to 2023, involving a total of 51 patents. The development of new cosmetic emulsifiers focuses on integrating natural compounds into formulations and using the synergistic effects of different compounds to produce better emulsified compositions.

Emulsifiers are classified according to the number and type of compounds they contain, and the results are shown in the figure. Among them, the only example of a single compound emulsifier is modified titanium dioxide. This modified titanium dioxide can produce greater amphiphilicity and dispersibility in emulsions, and improves stability by increasing the contact angle from the original 50° to 83.3±3°. Other interesting emulsifiers are emulsifiers obtained by microorganisms, involving a microorganism: Candida bombicola.

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References

Cortes, Natalia, et al. ACS omega, 2024, 9(50), 48884-48898.