What are the main production technologies for cosmetic raw materials?

Chemical Synthesis Technology for Cosmetics

Using natural resources or simple molecules as starting materials, compounds with special properties or relatively complex compounds can be synthesized through a series of chemical reactions such as oxidation reaction, reduction reaction, alkylation reaction, and acylation reaction. Chemically synthesized raw materials can achieve more expected properties of cosmetic formulas, while their production is more standardized and efficient.

Through chemical synthesis, various types of cosmetic raw materials with rich functions can be obtained, such as surfactants, thickeners, emulsifiers, preservatives, antioxidants, synthetic flavors and fragrances, synthetic colorants, as well as sunscreens and synthetic moisturizers. A typical example is petroleum jelly, whose main ingredient contains varying proportions of solid and liquid hydrocarbons and can be prepared by a variety of refining techniques. It is used in medicine and pharmaceuticals as a substitute for fats in protective dressings and in ointments and cosmetics.

However, chemical synthesis technology has shortcomings in producing functional active substances, such as long synthesis paths, complex conditions, and large environmental pollution. Therefore, chemical synthesis technology is currently mainly used to produce some basic, traditional, and auxiliary raw materials.

Plant Extraction Technology for Cosmetics

Plant extraction and separation and refining technology can extract the active ingredients from natural plants. Ingredients extracted from plants that can be used in cosmetic formulations include plant oils (volatile oils), flavonoids, polyphenols, polysaccharides, etc. They can be used in areas such as whitening, anti-aging, moisturizing, sun protection and antisepsis.

Comparison of plant extraction methods. [1]

Traditional plant extraction methods include maceration, percolation, decoction, infusion and Soxhlet extraction. In recent years, some emerging plant extraction technologies have gradually been developed, such as supercritical CO₂ extraction technology, microwave (MAE) extraction technology, ultrasonic (UAE) extraction technology, homogenizer (HAE) assisted extraction technology, bioenzymatic hydrolysis technology, and semi-bionic extraction technology, etc. Choosing more effective plant extraction technology can effectively reduce the level of environmental pollution.

Biological Fermentation Technology for Cosmetics

Currently, bio-fermentation technology is also a solution to support and promote more sustainable growth in the cosmetics industry. Microbial fermentation can not only synthesize easily absorbed small molecules such as amino acids, organic acids, flavonoids, and polyphenols, but also produce macromolecules with important functions such as polysaccharides, polypeptides, or proteins. It can not only produce active ingredients with functional effects, but also produce Surfactants and other auxiliary materials. The main fermentation forms of biological fermentation include:

• Fermentation by special proprietary strains, such as live cell yeast essence and bifid yeast fermentation products.
• Use fermentation technology to replace monomeric active ingredients obtained through traditional chemical synthesis. Such as ectoine, sodium hyaluronate, ergothioneine and other popular functional ingredients.
• Plant ferments. For example, Centella asiatica fermentation broth component is a component that can replace water in current water-free formulas.

The main advantages of fermentation-derived ingredients for cosmetic purposes in skin care products compared to traditional chemical ingredients include [2]:

• Renewable feedstocks as raw materials.
• Mild processing operations for production.
• Reduced generation of contaminant effluents.
• Increased bioavailability final product.
• High biocompatibility final product.
• Biodegradability properties.

Biosynthetic Technology for Cosmetics

Biosynthesis technology produces the required ingredients through the purposeful "genetic modification" of natural microorganisms, using "bacteria" as carriers. The types of cosmetic raw materials that can be developed by biosynthesis technology include natural products, such as astaxanthin, resveratrol, glycosides, squalene, etc., and industrial chemicals including ethanol, butanol, glycerin, and organic acids.

References

1. Ezzouhra El Maaiden, et al. Molecules. 2022, 27(7), 2074.
2. Cristina Pérez-Rivero, et al. Fermentation. 2023, 9(5), 463.

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What are the main production technologies for cosmetic raw materials?

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