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What PEGs are found in cosmetic formulas? Are they safe?

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What are Cosmetic Ingredients PEGs?

Polyethylene Glycols (PEGs) represent a group of polymers that have garnered significant attention in the cosmetics industry. These compounds are derived from ethylene oxide and water, characterized by the prefix 'PEG' followed by a numerical suffix signifying its molecular weight. PEGs serve as versatile components in cosmetic formulations, fulfilling functions such as emulsifying, stabilizing, and moisturizing, owing to their amphiphilic nature and ability to mix water and oil-based ingredients effectively.

The chemical structure of PEGs endows them with the ability to enhance product texture, consistency, and absorption, leading to their incorporation in a diverse array of personal care and beauty products, including lotions, creams, shampoos, and makeup items. However, amid their widespread applicability, questions surrounding the safety of PEGs have prompted meticulous scrutiny and assessment.

Typical PEGs in Cosmetics

Within cosmetic products, a variety of PEG compounds are utilized, each with distinct properties and functionalities. Some common variants including PEG-100 stearate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate feature prominently in formulations due to their emulsifying, moisturizing, and stabilizing capabilities. Below are some typical PEG ingredients and their uses in cosmetic formulations.

PEGsCosmetic UsesPrice
PEG-30 DipolyhydroxystearateUtilized in medium viscosity creams as a water-in-oil emulsifier, effectively stabilizing all types of oil at low concentrations with textures varying from lotion to thick cream.Inquiry
PEG-7 Glyceryl CocoateServes as an emollient and non-ionic surfactant, solubilizing perfumes and extracts, commonly used in hair care, men's grooming products, skin care, and bath and shower products.Inquiry
PEG-100 StearateActs as a non-ionic emulsifier in after sun skin care, antiperspirants, beach wear sun care, and cleansing wipes.Inquiry
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilAs a non-ionic surfactant, solubilizing extracts, perfumes, and vitamins, commonly used in hair care, men's grooming products, skin care, and bath and shower products.Inquiry
PEG-150 DistearateUtilized in baby shampoos, mild hair shampoos, foam baths, shower shampoos, and skin cleansing lotions, providing a distinctive viscosity modifying effect.Inquiry
PEG/PPG-18/18 DimethiconeIt is incorporated in hair care formulations to enhance silkiness, shine, lubricity, and detangling.Inquiry
PEG-12 Oleate (CAS 9004-96-0)Acts as emulsifiers and dispersing agents for creams, lotions, and bath oils.Inquiry
PEG-12 Dimethicone (CAS 68937-54-2)Functions as a surfactant, offering a smooth and silky feel with spreadability in body care and color cosmetics, as well as providing a soft and silky feel with wet and dry combing in hair care.Inquiry
PEG-20 Hydrogenated LanolinAs a super-fatting agent, solubilizer, and gelling agent for transparent gels, commonly used in creams, lotions, and decorative cosmetics.Inquiry
PEG-50 Shea ButterIt is employed in water-based products like shampoos, conditioners, creams, and lotions, acting as an emollient.Inquiry

Safety of PEG Ingredients

The safety evaluation of PEG compounds in cosmetics is a nuanced and multifaceted endeavor, necessitating a comprehensive understanding of not only their intrinsic properties but also potential impurities and environmental impact. In the pursuit of ensuring the safety of PEG ingredients, meticulous scrutiny is imperative, encompassing rigorous quality control measures and adherence to regulatory stipulations.

Safety of PEGs Themselves

The PEG molecule itself is considered inert, non-toxic, and generally recognized as safe (GRAS) for food and cosmetic production.

Safety of Impurities Contained in PEGs

However, during the production of PEG, impurities such as 1,4-dioxane, ethylene glycol, ethylene oxide, and diethylene glycol are produced. These ingredients are not safe, have physiological toxicity, are carcinogens, and can irritate the skin and cause skin allergies.

Moreover, the biodegradability of PEGs and their propensity to accumulate in nature is a matter of environmental significance. The manufacturing process involving ethoxylation, a chemical reaction critical to the synthesis of PEGs, has raised environmental and safety apprehensions due to the utilization of ethylene oxide, a known hazardous gas.

Reference

  1. Jang H J, et al. Toxicological research, 2015, 31, 105-136.
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