How to interpret the ingredient list of cosmetics?

What Is the INCI?

INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It is a system developed to standardize the labeling of cosmetic ingredients globally. The INCI name provides a common language for communication between manufacturers, regulatory agencies, and consumers. Each ingredient is assigned a unique name, allowing for easy identification and understanding of the components present in cosmetic products.

Important Things to Note on Labels

The labeling of cosmetic ingredient lists is regulated to ensure transparency and consumer safety. The following rules should be noted when interpreting these lists:

• Order of Ingredients

Ingredients are listed in descending order of their concentration in the product. The ingredient present in the highest quantity is listed first, followed by those in decreasing order. This helps consumers understand the relative amounts of each ingredient.

It is worth noting that the order of ingredients ranking does not represent their importance, such as water and other substances such as glycerol, butylene glycol, etc. In addition to their basic moisturizing effect, they also help disperse and dissolve the active ingredients in cosmetics. Some actives only need to be added at lower proportions to be effective, or act as synergistic ingredients.

• INCI Names

As mentioned earlier, the INCI names are used to label cosmetic ingredients. These names may differ from common or technical names, so it is important to familiarize oneself with the INCI nomenclature to accurately interpret ingredient lists.

• Percentage Information

Unlike some industries, cosmetic manufacturers are not required to disclose the exact percentage of each ingredient in the product. This is due to the preservation of trade secrets and proprietary formulations. However, certain countries may mandate the disclosure of specific active ingredients or potentially harmful ingredients on the product label.

Identify Confusing Skin Care Ingredients

Some ingredients used in skin care formulas may have different names than those we are familiar with. Here are explanations for some seemingly confusing ingredients, such as tocopherol, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, and ferulic acid, etc.

• Tocopherol

Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E commonly used in skincare products. It functions as an antioxidant, protecting the skin from damage caused by free radicals. Tocopherol helps to moisturize and improve the skin's texture, making it appear smoother and more youthful.

• Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a stable form of Vitamin C that is oil-soluble. It has similar benefits to other forms of Vitamin C, such as brightening the skin, promoting collagen production, and protecting against UV damage. Additionally, this form of Vitamin C has better penetration into the skin and is less likely to cause irritation.

• Ferulic Acid

Ferulic acid is a plant-derived antioxidant commonly found in the cell walls of fruits and vegetables. In skincare, it is often combined with Vitamin C and Vitamin E to stabilize them and enhance their effectiveness. Ferulic acid helps to neutralize free radicals, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and protect against sun damage.

• Retinyl Palmitate

Retinyl palmitate is a milder form of retinol, a derivative of Vitamin A. It is often used in skincare products due to its ability to promote cell turnover, improve skin texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Retinyl palmitate is also less irritating compared to other forms of retinol.

• Niacinamide

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a multitasking ingredient commonly found in skincare products. It helps to restore the skin's moisture barrier, reduce redness, even out skin tone, and minimize the appearance of pores. Niacinamide also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial for acne-prone skin.

Ingredients That May Cause Irritation

Common ingredients in cosmetic formulas that may cause irritation include fragrances, parabens, sulfates, alcohol, essential oils, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), and artificial colorants.

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How to interpret the ingredient list of cosmetics?

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