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| Catalog Number | CI-SC-0512 |
| Product Name | Oleic Acid |
| CAS | 112-80-1 |
| Structure |  |
| Synonyms | 9-cis-Octadecenoicacid |
| Description | Oleic acid (distilled) is an unsaturated omega-9 fatty acid. It is used as an emollient, moisturizer and co-emulsifier in cosmetic formulations. Solubilizing agent in aerosol products. HLB 15. |
| IUPAC Name | (Z)-octadec-9-enoic acid |
| Molecular Weight | 282.46 g/mol |
| Molecular Formula | C18H34O2 |
| Canonical SMILES | CCCCCCCC/C=C\CCCCCCCC(=O)O |
| InChI | InChI=1S/C18H34O2/c1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12-13-14-15-16-17-18(19)20/h9-10H,2-8,11-17H2,1H3,(H,19,20)/b10-9- |
| InChI Key | ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N |
| Boiling Point | 360 °C |
| Melting Point | 13-14 °C (lit.) |
| Flash Point | 133 °F |
| Purity | 98% |
| Density | 0.89 g/mL |
| Solubility | Oil-soluble |
| Appearance | Pale yellow liquid, faint odor |
| Application | Skin and hair care products, color cosmetics |
| Storage | Store light-protected at a cool and dry place |
| HS Code | 3402130000 |
| INCI | Oleic acid |
| Isomeric SMILES | CCCCCCCC/C=C\CCCCCCCC(=O)O |
| Refractive Index | n20/D 1.377(lit.) |
| Topological Polar Surface Area | 37.3 Ų |
| Uses | Recommended use level 1-5%. Add to water phase of emulsions. For external use only. |
Oleic acid, a monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid, is widely utilized in the formulation of high-end skincare products due to its compatibility with both vegetable and animal fats. With its chemical designation as C18:1n-9 or (Z)-9-Octadecenoic acid and an empirical formula of C18H34O2, oleic acid is sourced exclusively from renewable, plant-derived materials, ensuring both environmental sustainability and compliance with regulatory standards. This ensures that formulations meet consumer expectations and enhance their market acceptance. In its refined state, oleic acid typically comprises 80 to 88% of the content, with other naturally occurring fatty acids such as stearic, palmitic, and occasionally unsaturated ones like linoleic acid providing the balance. Known for its clear, colorless to pale yellow appearance and absence of strong odor, oleic acid finds applications as an emulsifying and solubilizing agent, defoamer, emollient, and absorption enhancer. These properties render it invaluable in both skin and hair care products, where it also serves as a vehicle or component within self-emulsifying delivery systems. Additionally, its status as a safe, food-grade ingredient allows for its incorporation into consumable products and pharmaceuticals.
Kim, Yun Jung, et al. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2019, 18(1), 383-389.
Oleic acid (OA) is an unsaturated free fatty acid (FFA) component in sebum, and FFA can regulate keratinocyte differentiation. This work determined that OA accelerates keratinocyte differentiation by upregulating miR-203 in HEKn under subconfluent conditions.
Research methods and results
· HEKn cells were cultured in EpiLife medium and exposed to varying concentrations of OA. The expression levels of keratin 10 and involucrin were assessed using Western blotting for proteins and quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR) for mRNAs. Changes in the cytoskeleton were examined through immunofluorescent staining. The levels of microRNA (miR)-203 were measured by stem-loop qRT-PCR, and the influence of miR-203 on keratinocyte differentiation was analyzed using anti-miR-203.
· OA treatment led to an increase in the expression of keratin 10 and involucrin, which are indicators of spinous and granular layer keratinocytes, respectively. Additionally, OA treatment resulted in cell stratification and alterations in the cytoskeleton, including a concentric ring arrangement of actin, loss of planar polarity, and enhanced localization of epithelial cadherin (E-cadherin) at cell-cell junctions. OA also raised miR-203 levels, known to be linked to keratinocyte differentiation, while decreasing the expression of p63, a target of miR-203 in HEKn cells. Moreover, the introduction of anti-miR-203 inhibited the OA-induced increase in involucrin expression.
Pegoraro, Natháli Schopf, et al. Inflammopharmacology, 2020, 28, 773-786.
Oleic acid (OA) is a fatty acid of the omega-9 (ω-9) family. An animal model of UV radiation-induced skin inflammation was used to gain insight into the anti-inflammatory effects of OA fatty acids incorporated into two semisolid dosage forms and their mechanisms of action.
Evaluation methods and results
· OA was incorporated into semisolid formulations, and various parameters including pH, spreadability, rheological properties, and in vivo anti-inflammatory effects were evaluated using a UVB radiation-induced skin inflammation model in mice. The anti-inflammatory effects were confirmed after both single and repeated applications to the mouse ear following UVB exposure. The interaction of OA with glucocorticoid receptors was examined. Both semisolid formulations exhibited pH levels suitable for deeper skin layers, favorable spreadability, and non-Newtonian pseudoplastic rheological characteristics.
· After a single treatment, the semisolid dosage forms containing 3% OA showed better efficacy in inhibiting ear edema than dexamethasone and also reduced inflammatory cell infiltration. After multiple applications, all formulations effectively reduced ear edema at 24, 48, and 72 hours post-UVB exposure. The characteristics of OA in semisolids make them suitable for topical administration, and its anti-inflammatory effects appear to be mediated through glucocorticoid receptors. Additionally, OA was shown to alleviate croton oil-induced skin inflammation. The ex vivo skin permeation study also suggested that OA penetrates the receptor medium, indicating potential systemic absorption in vivo.
What is oleic acid?
Oleic acid is a natural, monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid found in many plants, including grape seed and olives.
What is the primary source of oleic acid?
The primary source of oleic acid is olive oil.
What are the skin benefits of oleic acid?
Oleic acid has improved skin calming abilities when combined with other lipids, reducing signs of dryness and sensitivity. It also enhances penetration of other ingredients naturally present in plant oils or in skincare products.
How is oleic acid used in cosmetics?
Oleic acid is used as a cleansing agent and texture enhancer in cosmetics. It helps to preserve the effectiveness of delicate ingredients and contributes to the stability of formulations.
What are the potential effects of applying oleic acid on its own or as olive oil to the skin?
Research has shown that topical application of oleic acid on its own or as olive oil can disrupt the skin's barrier. This effect can be undesirable unless blended with other fatty acids and skin-beneficial ingredients.
What are the functions of oleic acid in skincare products?
Oleic acid serves as an emollient and moisturizing ingredient, enhancing skin hydration and improving the skin's barrier function. It provides a smooth and soft texture to creams, lotions, serums, and lip balms.
What is the chemical formula of oleic acid?
The chemical formula of oleic acid is C18H34O2.
Where does oleic acid come from?
Oleic acid is primarily obtained through the hydrolysis or saponification of natural oils that contain high levels of oleic acid, such as olive oil or sunflower oil.
Is oleic acid safe for use in cosmetics?
Oleic acid is considered safe for use in cosmetics when used in accordance with regulations and industry standards. However, some individuals may be sensitive or allergic to oleic acid, so a patch test is advisable before using products containing this ingredient.
What are the different applications of oleic acid in hair care?
Oleic acid works as a conditioning agent in hair care products, providing smoothness and manageability to the hair. It helps seal moisture in the hair shaft, preventing dryness and frizz, and improves hair texture and shine.
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