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How to formulate sunscreen cosmetics?

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Formula Development and Design Principles

When developing sunscreen cosmetic formulations, it is imperative to consider the key principles of formula development to ensure the effectiveness and safety of the product.

The formulation should focus on achieving the desired sun protection factor (SPF) while ensuring the stability, sensory appeal, and skin compatibility of the product.

Utilizing a combination of broad-spectrum UV filters, antioxidants, and moisturizing agents can help achieve the desired outcomes.

Additionally, the use of nanotechnology can enhance the performance of sunscreen products by improving UV protection and skin feel.

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Popular Sunscreen Ingredients and Their Sunscreen Mechanisms

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When formulating sunscreen products, several popular and effective active ingredients have been widely used, such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, avobenzone, octocrylene, and homosalate. These ingredients act through different mechanisms to protect the skin from harmful UV radiation.

There are two main types of sunscreen agents: chemical and physical (mineral) filters. Formulators often combine multiple sunscreen agents to provide broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays.

  • Chemical filters, such as avobenzone and octocrylene, work by absorbing UV rays and converting them into heat.
  • Physical filters, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, act as a physical barrier by reflecting and scattering UV rays away from the skin.

List of Popular Sunscreen Ingredients

Sunscreen IngredientsAmount of Ray ProtectionChemical (C) or Physical (P)
UVAUVB
Aminobenzoic acid (PABA)★★★★C
Avobenzone★★★★★★C
Cinoxate★★★★★★C
Dioxybenzone★★★★★★★C
Ecamsule★★★★★★C
Homosalate★★★★C
Menthyl anthranilate★★★★★★★C
Octocrylene★★★★★★C
Octyl methoxycinnamate★★★★★★C
Octyl salicylate★★★★C
Oxybenzone★★★★★★★C
Padimate O★★★★C
Phenylbenzimidazole★★★★C
Sulisobenzone★★★★★★★C
Titanium dioxide★★★★★★★P
Trolamine salicylate★★★★C
Zinc Oxide★★★★★★★★P

*Protection Level: ★★★★= extensive, ★★★= considerable, ★★= limited , ★= minimal

Maximum Allowable Concentrations of Sunscreen Ingredients

Common active ingredients in sunscreen formulations and their maximum allowable concentrations are listed below, including but not limited to:

  • Zinc Oxide: Maximum concentration of 25%
  • Titanium Dioxide: Maximum concentration of 25%
  • Avobenzone: Maximum concentration of 3%
  • Octocrylene: Maximum concentration of 10%
  • Homosalate: Maximum concentration of 15%

These concentrations are in line with regulations and recommendations to ensure both effectiveness and safety.

How to Choose the Right Sunscreen Ingredients?

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The selection of sunscreen ingredients is a critical aspect of formulation design. Factors such as UV protection spectrum, photostability, skin compatibility, regulatory status, and formulation requirements are carefully considered.

  • Regulatory Compliance

Formulations must comply with regional sunscreen regulations, including maximum allowable concentrations of active ingredients.

  • Photostability

Sunscreen actives should demonstrate robust stability under UV exposure to maintain their effectiveness during sun exposure.

  • Skin Feel and Aesthetics

The formulation should offer an appealing sensory experience and be suitable for diverse consumer preferences.

  • Labeling and Claims

Accurate and informative labeling, including SPF (Sun Protection Factor) and broad-spectrum claims, is essential to provide consumers with transparent information about the product's sun protection properties.

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