Provitamin B5 Powder (dl-panthenol)

Khater, Syame, et al. Journal of pharmaceutical and biomedical analysis, 2015, 102, 321-325.

The therapeutic effects of provitamin B5 are solely attributed to its D-form (dexpanthenol), making precise determination of its enantiomeric purity in cosmetic products essential. This study presents a swift and effective chiral supercritical fluid chromatography (SFC) method for the quantitative analysis of panthenol enantiomers in various cosmetic formulations, including creams, lotions, wipes, and exfoliants.
Determination Method
· The samples were prepared using liquid-liquid extraction followed by solid-phase extraction with amino cartridges. Various enantioselective columns were tested to reverse the elution order so that the minor enantiomer would elute first. The optimal separation of the enantiomers and the internal standard, N-acetyl-l-alanine, was accomplished on a 3 μm-amylose-type immobilized polysaccharide chiral stationary phase in under 6 minutes, using a simple mobile phase of carbon dioxide and 11% methanol, at a flow rate of 2.3 mL/min, 25 °C, and a backpressure of 150 bar.
· The technique employed supercritical fluid chromatography, paired with an optical diode-array detector and a user-friendly single-quadrupole mass spectrometer featuring an electrospray ionization source. This online coupling enhances the method's informative capacity and detection sensitivity, particularly beneficial since underivatized panthenol exhibits weak UV absorption. The limit of quantification (LOQ) was determined to be 0.5 μg/mL using single-ion recording.

Jerajani, Hemangi R., et al. Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology, 2010, 76, 20.

This work quantified how a daily application of a lotion rich in niacinamide, provitamin B5 (panthenol) and tocopheryl acetate had impacted epidermal hyperpigmentation on the faces of epidermal hyperpigmentators using quantitative image analysis. Results revealed a face cream with niacinamide, provitamin B5 and tocopheryl acetate brightened skin tone and texture.
· Lotion Formulation
The hydrating lotion had 4% of niacinamide, 0.5% of provitamin B5, 0.5% of tocopheryl acetate, sunscreen, and glycerol in addition to other cosmetic ingredients in the control lotion.
· Evaluation Results
Of the 246 women who were randomised to treatment, 207 (84%) completed the study. Among the women who received the test lotion, hyperpigmentation had greatly decreased, skin tone became more even, skin lightened and skin texture improved. This changed as early as 6 weeks after treatment as compared with the control. The test lotion was well tolerated.