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Ceteareth-20

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Catalog Number CI-SC-0153
Product Name Ceteareth-20
CAS 68439-49-6
Structure
Description Non-ionic polyoxyethylene ether of higher saturated fatty alcohols (cetyl/stearyl alcohol). HLB value 15-17 (gives oil-in-water emulsions).
Solubility Dissolves in water & alcohol to form a colloid solution;can be mixed with mineral, vegetable or synthetic fats and oils
Appearance White pellets, no odor
Application All kinds of emulsion-based cosmetic products like creams, lotions (especially sprayable lotions), foundations, hair conditioners, sunscreen products.
Storage Store in a closed container at a dry place at room temperature
Composition Ceteareth-20
Features And Benefits Universal emulsifier to make o/w emulsions, compatible with all kinds of oils & active ingredientsVery effective protective colloid that stabilizes all kinds of dispersed systemsCan be combined with other emulsifiersOptimal use with gel-forming thickeners
GMO GMONo data available
HS Code 3402130000
INCI Ceteareth-20
Manufacture Vegetable oils are processed to fatty alcohols (mainly cetyl alcohol & stearyl alcohol) which then are ethoxylated with ethylene oxide (no. 20 indicates number of ethylene oxide residues).
Preservation Preservative-free
Purity Grade No purity grade applicable
Raw Material Source Vegetable oils and ethylene oxide
Uses Typical use level 0.5-30% (range of 15-30% used to make gel-like brushable hydrates). For external use only.
Product Overview

Ceteareth-20, a polyethylene glycol with approximately 20 ethoxylate units derived from a blend of cetyl and stearyl alcohols, is renowned for its role as an effective emulsifier in various cosmetic formulations. As a water-in-oil emulsifier and co-emulsifier in oil-in-water systems, it provides superior emulsifying properties with a high HLB value of 15.5. This property allows it to act as a robust mineral-oil-free emulsion base, streamlining the formulation process. Ceteareth-20 can produce formulations with varying consistencies, from liquid to creamy, making it versatile for use in serums, creams, masks, and even as a binder in pressed powder products. Notably, it is known for its excellent stability and distribution characteristics, contributing to an impressive sensory profile and a pleasant skin feel. Its compatibility with a wide range of ingredients makes it a universal surfactant, dispersing and wetting agent, and solubilizer, suitable for diverse applications in skincare emulsions, makeup foundations, and hair care products.

Case Study

Effect of Oxyethylene Chain Length in Ceteareths on the Skin Permeation of Flavonoids

Arct J, et al. Pol J Cosmetol, 2016, 19, 59-63.

Flavonoids are natural antioxidants widely used in cosmetics. But hydrophilic ingredients and emulsifiers in cosmetics can affect flavonod bioavailability. This work studied the skin permeation of flavonoids effected by ceteareths of different oxyethylene chain lengths (3% Ceteareth-12 or Ceteareth-20 or Ceteareth-30 ) as emulsifiers.
The penetration of the studied flavonoids (quercetin or rutin) was strictly a function of the emulsifier polarity. Cetreareth-12 and ceteareth-20 had the highest rates of penetration for quercetin. The results for rutin showed that the highest permeation rate of flavonoids could be observed in the case of ceteareth-12. The hindering effect of rutin was observed in the case of ceteareth 20 and 30. The permeability of quercetin decreased drastically in the case of ceteareth 30. The permeation of both flavonoids was inhibited by emulsifiers with high HLB values.

Preparation of Liquid Crystalline Emulsions with Ceteareth-20 for Marigold Oil

dos Santos O D H, et al. Journal of dispersion science and technology, 2005, 26(2), 243-249.

Liquid crystal emulsions are complex drug delivery systems for skin surfaces. In this work, stable emulsions containing liquid crystals were obtained using nonionic surfactants derived from ethoxylated cetyl and stearyl alcohols with the desired HLB value of 6.0 for marigold oil in the oil/water emulsion formulation.
The surfactants were blended as lipophilic/hydrophilic pairs. Those surfactants were: lipophilic surfactants including ceteareth-2 and steareth-2, and hydrophilic surfactants including steareth-20, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-5 and ceteareth-10. To evaluate the effect of the type of ethoxylated alcohol surfactant, emulsions were made from the original base formula and surfactant ratio chosen to obtain an HLB value of 6.0.
The variation of the degree of ethoxylation and carbon chain size of the surfactants was studied by microscopic analysis and methods. All emulsions showed liquid crystal formation. Lamellar liquid crystals were found in all developed emulsions. No significant differences between the structures were observed under the microscope. However, the rheological properties were extensively altered depending on the type of surfactant.

Custom Q&A

What is Ceteareth-20 and what are its primary properties?

Ceteareth-20 is a polyethylene glycol ether, specifically PEG-20 cetyl/stearyl ether. It consists of a blend of cetyl and stearyl alcohols and is approximately 20 ethoxylate units long. This compound appears as a white, waxy solid and forms colloidal or clear solutions in water and alcohol. It is known for being insoluble in natural fats and oils and is used for its excellent emulsifying properties.

How is Ceteareth-20 used in formulations?

Ceteareth-20 is primarily used as a water-in-oil emulsifier and can also act as a co-emulsifier in oil-in-water formulations. It serves as a mineral-oil-free emulsion base, which simplifies the formulation process. This ingredient is utilized in skin care emulsions, makeup foundations, hair rinses, serums, soft creams, and masks. Its versatility extends to acting as a binder in pressed powder systems, supporting a range of product consistencies from liquid to creamy.

What are the benefits of using Ceteareth-20 in cosmetic products?

Ceteareth-20 offers high emulsifying properties due to its HLB value of 15.5, making it effective in creating stable, non-ionic emulsions. It provides an excellent sensory profile and a pleasant skin feel, ensuring a high-quality user experience. Additionally, it is multifunctional, serving as a universal surfactant, dispersing and wetting agent, and solubilizer, which enhances the formulation's performance and compatibility with various active ingredients.

Is Ceteareth-20 suitable for all skin types?

Due to its excellent emulsification and sensory properties, Ceteareth-20 is generally well-tolerated and suitable for a wide range of skin types. However, as with any ingredient, individual reactions can vary, and it's recommended to perform a patch test or consult with a dermatologist if any concerns arise, particularly for individuals with sensitive skin.

Can Ceteareth-20 be used in natural formulations?

While Ceteareth-20 is an effective emulsifier, it is not considered natural because it is derived from ethoxylated alcohols. Therefore, it may not align with formulations marketed as entirely natural or organic. However, it is free from ethylene oxide-containing substances, which makes it a preferable choice in formulations aiming to exclude specific synthetic components.

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